Munich offers plenty of shopping spots, but the Glockenbachviertel (district) stands out as a unique destination for vintage shopping. This is not just because of the huge number of stores, but also the sense of community among them. We strolled from shop to shop with vintage specialist and shop owner Alva-Morgaine Pilz, who explains to us the difference between second-hand and vintage and why you should always be on the lookout for old cashmere.
As we step into the first shop with Alva-Morgaine Pilz, ’Haben Will’ on Reichenbachstrasse, there's a brief moment of suspense. Behind the counter stands Dirk Mann, the shop owner, who might have been expected to narrow his eyes with a sense of rivalry – after all, Pilz runs her own vintage store just 700 meters away on Hans-Sachs-Strasse. But instead, they greet each other like old friends: Amidst wicker bags and crystal bustiers, they chat about their latest finds: a pair of Etro trousers from the 1970s and a necklace of Japanese freshwater pearls. It's clear that they share a deep passion for vintage.
Pilz, who started collecting vintage clothing at 13, laughs when asked how many pieces she owns: “I honestly couldn't say, there are just too many.” She looks like she's stepped straight out of a 1970s music video, with her auburn curls under a slouch hat, a floral blouse, flared trousers, and gold rings on her red-painted fingers. After studying art history with a focus on textiles and ethnology, she came across an empty store on Hans-Sachs-Strasse seven years ago – and promptly fulfilled her dream of having her own shop. “I sell clothing from the years 1880 to 1990, so it's exclusively vintage.” This distinction is important to her, as true vintage refers only to items 25 years or older – unlike second-hand, which can include more recent pieces.
Amidst wicker bags and crystal bustiers, they chat about their latest finds: a pair of Etro trousers from the 1970s and a necklace of Japanese freshwater pearls.
At ’Haben Will’, Pilz finds a bracelet she can't resist. “I never manage to leave here without buying something,” she says. She especially recommends Dirk Mann's shop for jewellery, stage costumes, and hats. Racks of clothes line the walls, bags hang from shelves and high piles of hats are stacked on mannequin's heads. Don't expect a typical shopping experience here! Pilz comments: “It's just like at my shop: Not everything is meticulously sorted and not all sizes are always available.” Pilz and Mann agree that what sets these shops apart isn't just the unique clothing, but also the personal advice. “The best part is that the owners are present in these vintage shops and can tell you the story behind each piece,” Pilz explains. Mann adds, “In Glockenbach, the vintage shops are like a family, because it's such a special sector. These shops are built on love and passion, not for profit.”
Next, Pilz plans to stop by René's. His shop ‘Cat with a Hat’ is located 200 metres further down Baaderstrasse and offers jewellery and vintage fashion. René Maria Lutz is waiting for us behind the counter, his thumbs with dark polished nails are hooked into the belt loops of his jeans and a small earring is dangling from one ear. After a brief chat about the latest items René got hold of, he asks if we've been ”next door at Trish” or visited Alexa. “We're all incredibly happy to have each other,” says Pilz. “Vintage is like playing the lottery, sometimes you find something, sometimes you don't. If someone leaves my shop sad and empty-handed and I can offer them an alternative, this makes them happy and they might come back, because they see that I know what I'm doing.” Their motto is ‘with each other instead of against each other’, which creates a complementary network that acts like a magnet on vintage fans. “We all have a different style and focus. The uniqueness of each piece means there’s no competition,” Pilz explains.
She moves systematically through the shop, methodically reaching for hangers. You can recognise her trained eye as she looks for specific colours and materials. “It's selective perception,” she notes. As we browse through the clothes, Pilz explains how to identify quality vintage clothing: “Pay attention to whether it has machine or hand seams. If the seams are far too regular and zigzagged, it was made with an overlock sewing machine, which means it's mass-produced. When you buy vintage, you want a unique piece.” She humorously describes her own style as “kitsch with aspiration and lots of fairy tales.”
Pilz particularly enjoys searching for cashmere – not just any cashmere, but the kind produced at the turn of the century. “Back then, there were huge cashmere scarves that were worn over pelerines – a short kind of shoulder cape. Cashmere in those times wasn't as soft as we know it today, but it was incredibly intricately woven and particularly thick.”
She humorously describes her own style as “kitsch with aspiration and lots of fairy tales.”
Pilz finds the majority of her pieces while travelling, preferably in Ibiza, where many individual pieces are still crafted. She also shops at souks in Morocco and flea markets in Brussels, known for their great vintage furniture. “I never go on holiday where I can't shop,” she says. Sometimes she has to take an extra suitcase – “or I squeeze something in with my friends. Either way, I usually come back with a lot of excess baggage.” Pilz hardly buys anything online. “I need to see and touch the clothes myself. That's the reason why I run this shop – the feel conveys the value. People are much more forgiving of small imperfections. That's not the case when you order online and have no context for the item.”
Pilz decides it's time to move on and René Maria Lutz bids us farewell. “Say hello to Alexa from me,” he says. ‘Alexas Secondhandmode’ in Utzschneiderstrasse is a veteran of the Munich vintage scene and has been around for over thirty years. The shop's namesake sits behind the counter, wearing two scarves, one as a headband, the other wrapped around her neck – her eyes rimmed in black. When Pilz enters, Alexa Schab smiles and the conversation immediately turns to fashion. She leads Pilz to a stand and shows her a magenta-coloured velvet suit.
Vintage fashion is a trend at the moment and some shops are taking advantage of this by selling second-hand goods as authentic vintage. Schab explains how to outsmart this pointing to a pair of trousers that have no label attached. “This means that they are most likely handmade and not produced in a factory. If there's no label and no sizing, that's a good indication of vintage.”
Although altering sizes and fits can be tricky, vintage fashion has one big advantage: “The beauty is that everything repeats itself,” says Pilz.
‘Alexas’ is THE place to go for vintage fashion for men, which is quite rare, explains Pilz. “A lot was ruined during the two world wars,” explains Alexa Schab. “Plus, men didn't take care of their clothes like women did.” Once again it becomes clear that good advice is precious when it comes to vintage shopping. Finding a suitable shirt from the 1950s requires some searching. “Trousers had a much higher rise back then,” says Pilz. “That's why vintage shirts are too short for most men today, who wear their trousers lower,” adds Schab. The same goes for shoe sizes. “Even if you find a size 37 shoe, you can't be sure it will fit. Shoes used to be much narrower than they are today.” Her advice: Ignore the size guides and try things on.
Although altering sizes and fits can be tricky, vintage fashion has one big advantage: “The beauty is that everything repeats itself,” says Pilz. “In the 1960s, you have the straight lines of the 1920s and the 1930s resemble the 1970s. So, you can always offer customers an alternative.”
Both Schab and Pilz are convinced: This year's big trend will be country fashion – cowboy hats and boots. “Just look at the latest Louis Vuitton show,” says Schab, referring to the French fashion house's collection, in which the models were sent down the catwalk with western belts and lassos in their hands. Alexa Schab invites us for a glass of champagne in front of the shop – something the two say is a standard practice. “We get together, have a drink and chat,” says Alexa Schab. “And then we buy the latest pieces from each other.”
