Nowhere else is beer more loved than in Munich. But to speak of merely “a love for beer” would be an understatement. Munich's world-famous beer has shaped traditions, neighbourhoods and the city's rhythm of life – and continues to do so today.
“Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalt's” – “May God preserve hops and malt” – is a common toast among beer drinkers. It expresses both the hope that the barley juice may never run out and a deeper concern in Munich: that the world as we know it could come to an end. Munich without beer? This thought requires more imagination than simply finding an alternative thirst quencher.
The “Bavarian Purity Law” of 1516 is often called the world’s oldest food law still in force and has its roots in the “Munich Purity Law” of 1487.
The close connection between Munich and beer has existed almost from the very beginning: The Bavarian State Brewery Weihenstephan in Freising near Munich, the world’s oldest operating brewery, dates back nearly a millennium to 1040 – predating “Munichen” itself, officially founded in 1158. Until today, Weihenstephan trains the world's future brewers elite at its research brewery. Munich’s connection to beer is also reflected in its oldest active association, the Verein Münchener Brauereien e. V. (Association of Munich Breweries), bearing registration number 2, whose members include the six original Munich breweries still active to this day.
The “Bavarian Purity Law” of 1516 is often called the world’s oldest food law still in force and has its roots in the “Munich Purity Law” of 1487. It was issued by Duke Albrecht IV and specifies the only ingredients allowed for Munich beer to this day: hops, malt, water and yeast.
With this list of ingredients in mind, take a moment to visualise Munich's location, the resources offered by its surrounding area and its climatic influences: Due to its fertile soils, the “Gäuboden” region south of the Danube in nearby Lower Bavaria is considered the “breadbasket” of Bavaria and is known for the fact that malting barley of the highest quality is still grown here.
When the Nationaltheater (National Theatre) burned down in 1823, the citizens of Munich financed the reconstruction with a “beer penny” tax.
The moderate climate with warm summers and sufficient rainfall favours agriculture and also benefits the picturesque Hallertau region north of Munich. This region is the centre of the global hop trade, producing around a third of the world's hops and boasting one of the oldest hop-growing regions in Europe.
Munich's drinking water comes from the Mangfall Mountains in the foothills of the Bavarian Alps. It is crystal clear and of exceptional quality. With these ideal conditions, it really seems like a gift from heaven that made Munich a world-famous beer city.
Surprisingly, in the 16th century, Bavaria was not known as the “land of beer” yet. Back then, people with sophisticated tastes usually favoured wine or beer imported from northern Germany. This imported beer was pricey and the Bavarian rulers were rather thirsty. So, Duke Wilhelm V took action in 1589 and established a brewery today known as the world-famous Hofbräuhaus.
In a way, this also laid the foundation for Bavarian beer culture: At the time, the gold standard for beer quality was set by the Hanseatic town of Einbeck in Lower Saxony, which was famous for its ”Ainpöckisch Bier”. A skilled master brewer from Einbeck was lured to Munich with a good salary to brew the same ”Ainpöckisch Bier” there.
Even if you are not in Munich for the Oktoberfest, you still have the opportunity to pay homage to beer at a traditional folk festival.
In the Munich dialect ”Ainpöckisch Bier” became “Bockbier”, which is better known as “Starkbier” (strong beer) today. For years, the Hofbräuhaus had the exclusive right to brew both Starkbier and Weißbier (wheat beer). The Bavarian rulers capitalised on this monopoly to boost their finances and it is said that in the 17th century, beer sales and taxes contributed 30 to 50 percent of Bavaria's state revenue. The beer profits also helped to fund the war machine during the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648). And when the Nationaltheater (National Theatre) burned down in 1823, the citizens of Munich financed the reconstruction with a “beer penny” tax.
If these stories sparked your interest, you should definitely visit the Bier- und Oktoberfestmuseum (Beer and Oktoberfest Museum) in the old town. It is housed in Munich’s oldest townhouse, dating back to 1340. A steep stairway leads to the exhibition rooms on the second, third and fourth floors. The ground and first floors host the cosy “Museumsstüberl”, a pub offers visitors an even better way to experience Munich’s beer culture: by tasting, enjoying and immersing yourself in it.
The tradition of bringing your own food to a beer garden remains alive and is even protected by the Bavarian Beer Garden Ordinance.
Starting in a pub is an excellent idea, as this is where beer culture is lived, cultivated and passed on day after day. Much more visible, however, is the Oktoberfest, which is visited by millions of people from all over the world every year. However, it is not only the world-class beer that attracts them, but also the unique atmosphere of the world’s largest folk festival. And this spirit is not confined to the “Wiesn” (Oktoberfest grounds): It spills over into the whole city, and is affectionately called the “fifth season” by the locals. The festivities start every year in September with the tapping of the first barrel and Munich's Lord Mayor’s proclamation: “O'zapft is!” - “The keg is tapped!”
Even if you are not in Munich for the Oktoberfest, you still have the opportunity to pay homage to beer at a traditional folk festival. The Starkbier season between carnival and Easter marks the start of the beer calendar. It lasts three weeks and is dedicated to Bock beer, one of the most full-flavoured beers in the world, whose names often end in “-ator” in Munich. The Nockherberg festivals are particularly famous in Germany for the politician “derbleckn”, where public figures are humorously “roasted” in Bavarian pub style. This is followed by the "Kleine Wiesn," the spring festival on the Theresienwiese. The Auer Dult Is held three times a year on Mariahilfplatz in Au-Haidhausen and boasts an even longer tradition than the Oktoberfest, with its first event organised in 1310.
Surprisingly, Munich’s beer calendar slows down in summer. Why is that? It is hard to say. Perhaps, because Munich residents seem to have little time and desire to dance at large events in summer, or because they are too busy hanging out in the beer gardens. This particularly sociable form of pub originated in the 19th century, at a time when there were no refrigerators: To ensure a steady supply of beer even during the summer, Munich brewers built large cellars in which the beer was cooled with ice collected from lakes, canals and glaciers in winter.
In the pubs and beer gardens it is common to sit down at a table with strangers. If you strike up a conversation, you can learn lots of interesting beer stories.
Chestnut trees were planted above the cellars to provide shade, as their shallow roots did not damage the vaults. To further lower the temperature inside, the cellar surfaces were covered with gravel. Over time, breweries began to sell their beer directly on site. And because beer makes you hungry, food was also offered for sale. This setup proved so successful that beer gardens quickly became extremely popular, much to the annoyance of neighbouring innkeepers.
To bring some balance to the situation, food sales were forbidden in the beer gardens and only self-brought food or bread was allowed. Although this rule no longer applies, the tradition of bringing your own food to a beer garden remains alive and is even protected by the Bavarian Beer Garden Ordinance.
With such a long history, strict traditions and so much living culture, one might think that the Munich beer scene would be stagnant. But the opposite is the case, which is perhaps due to the combative spirit that is deeply engrained in Munich's character. Where some people say that something will not work, they won't do that, or have never done that – it usually doesn't take long before someone else does exactly that. This openness has given rise to a lively craft beer scene, which mostly brews according to the purity law but sometimes also adds herbs or grapes to the brewing kettle – not to rebel against taboos, but to craft unique and delicious beers.
You see, you can spend a lifetime exploring Munich beer. So, what's the best way to explore its diversity? One way is to be guided by someone who has devoted countless hours to Munich, its beer, and its history – like some of the city's official tour guides, many of whom are even brewers themselves.
They can share a wealth of fascinating facts about Munich's beer traditions in specially designed themed tours. Or skip the theory and dive straight into practise in the pubs and beer gardens, where it is common to sit down at a table with strangers. If you strike up a conversation, you can learn lots of interesting beer stories. But the most important insights come the moment a waiter places a fresh “Halbe” (half-litre of beer) in front of you.
