A colourful pub garden with a raffia and bamboo railing in Munich.

Interview: Schanigardens

Makeshift drinking spots – an enduring proposition?

As coronavirus swept through the world in 2020, Munich’s cityscape changed radically, with spaces previously used for parking suddenly reborn as new, improvised outdoor bar and restaurant areas – sometimes dubbed “Schanigärten”. Munich architect Alexander Fthenakis is so fascinated by this phenomenon of temporary architectures that he has written “Schanitown”, a whole book on the subject. In it, he examines how these “gardens” speak to a new understanding of the concept of a city – and why they are worth retaining.

Where did Schanigardens come from? Isn’t it a strange name?

There are various explanations for the word’s origin. The most common one is that it comes from the Viennese hospitality industry, where the most junior waiter or trainee was traditionally referred to as “Jean” – which was then Austrianised to “Schani”. As the new boy, his job would be to carry tables outside and set them up in fine weather, and so the name has come to be applied to these outdoor hospitality spaces.

What is the difference between a Schani and a typical outdoor bar area?

Well, there are many similarities. Opening both requires hospitality venues to apply for permission, and strict rules must be followed in both cases too. We all recognise the table layout markings that the Regional Administrative Office (Kreisverwaltungsreferat) lays out for outdoor bar areas – as soon as something gets disturbed or a foot is out of place, the waiters start getting jittery. The basic difference between an outdoor bar area and a Schanigarten is the location. An outdoor bar area is generally on the pavement right outside the pub itself, while a Schanigarten usually occupies on-street parking spaces.

That doesn’t really like such a dramatic difference.

Ah, but it is. Outdoor bar areas are not particularly exciting from an architectural or urban development point of view. They are generally just made up of furniture and parasols, and maybe an awning as well. Schanigardens are much more elaborate, and are recognisable as proper structures, which are usually made from wood such as construction pallets, plywood or particle board. This structure is surrounded by a railing – that’s necessary because the Schani is in the middle of the road, and you need to ensure that punters won’t stumble into traffic after a few drinks.

What interests you so much about this type of architecture?

Well first of all I find it interesting that it is a type of architecture at all. It is really a kind of manifestation in building form. I like to compare Schanis with a ship’s dinghy. The restaurant or café is the sailing ship, and the Schani belongs to it but is also independent from it. Design decisions need to be made that respect this autonomy. The simplest approach is an enclosed wooden area at the same level as the pavement; but some Schanis are elevated from footpath level, so sitting in them is like being on a little balcony above the street. And then there is the purity of the design elements. Most Schanis are very Spartan – made from wood and nothing else. But some echo design themes from the main pub or restaurant they belong to. For example, at “Pizzesco” in Westend, they have strung up clotheslines hung with clean laundry all around their Schani – which immediately calls to mind images of Naples or Palermo, where sheets flutter on the warm breeze, high above the streets. One thing all Schanis have in common is that they are very much improvised. That is inherent in their nature – most of them were built in just a few days.

And that leads us to the question of why so many Schanigardens have sprung up over the last year.

Well, there are several factors at play. The city has been very generous in granting permits for such spaces, and that is certainly because of coronavirus. The authorities wanted to help the struggling restaurant industry, and they also knew that it is much less dangerous to drink outdoors than in enclosed spaces. I also suspect that one reason so many Schanis were approved was because it was assumed that they would only be temporary – a makeshift arrangement, though one that may now remain in place. The second major factor, of course, is that a new way of looking at cars in cities is slowly taking over. Schanis directly compete with private transport by car.

Drink, don’t drive?

A total of 433 Schanis had been approved by the end of August 2020, meaning 973 parking spaces were eliminated and replaced with around 8,000 seats. If the coronavirus pandemic had happened ten years ago, it would surely not have created the same Schani boom. The car-friendly city was still an undisputed ideal back then: you could have a pedestrian zone in the centre if you liked, but apart from that the streets were for cars. It is now becoming increasingly clear that this model is outdated – even if only because cars are getting bigger and bigger and no longer fit in narrow city streets. But also, there are now adequate alternatives available in terms of shared mobility. The private car is definitely retreating from our cities – and that is why I believe that the Schanis are not going anywhere. Another option which could be imagined, and which seems sensible to me, is for parking spaces and Schanis to alternate with the seasons. In winter, when there is a greater need to travel by car, the Schanis could be dismantled and become parking spaces again. That would probably be advisable anyway, as frost and snow are likely to adversely affect the improvised structures. I am excited to see what architectural solutions to this issue will emerge. In any case, a compromise between mobility and Schanis is certainly possible.

There is another compromise which could be more difficult to get to though: one between party-loving guests, and residents who need peace and quiet.

Yes, that is the second major area of conflict when it comes to Schanis. The city’s residential spaces have gained a huge amount of value in recent years. An affluent client base which would traditionally have abandoned cities to raise their families elsewhere is now staying on – or even deciding to move back. And these not-quite-so-young people are often the first to complain about night-time noise made by those who are still young. Here we can see the city being understood as an interesting backdrop – a luxury product that you can afford to buy yourself. And once you’ve splashed out on that, you don’t really want loud revellers thrown into your shopping basket. It is a conflict that is definitely not so easy to resolve. But perhaps the Schanis will help to defuse it somewhat.

About Alexander Fthenakis

Alexander Fthenakis studied architecture in Munich, Strasbourg and Madrid. With two colleagues he founded the office Fthenakis Ropee Architekten in 2008. For his book "Schanitown" he drifted through the streets of Munich and took a close look at the Schanigartens that have been sprouting up since 2020.

 
Interview: Paul-Philipp Hanske; Photos: Frank Stolle
Baker at work in the Hofbräuhaus-Kunstmühle in Munich.

Bread report: Our daily bread

Back ma's

Virtually no other city has a bread tradition stretching back as far as that of Munich – or such venerated bakery products. What makes them so exceptional and desirable?

Virtually no other city has a bread tradition stretching back as far as that of Munich – or such venerated bakery products. What makes them so exceptional and desirable?

A glass of beer in a restaurant in Munich.

Beer typology

What are you drinking?

Starkbier, Festbier, Hell, Dunkel, Pils: a typology of Munich's beers – and the people who drink them.

Starkbier, Festbier, Hell, Dunkel, Pils: a typology of the most important Munich beers – and the people who drink them.

A fisherman takes a fish from a net on a lake.

Burbot, Bullhead, Whitefish

Native Exoticness

A lot of bones, difficult to eat: Freshwater fish is a culinary niche. But young chefs in Munich are turning char, wels catfish and pike into a true taste adventure.

A lot of bones, difficult to eat: Freshwater fish is a culinary niche. But young chefs in Munich are turning char, wels catfish and pike into a true taste adventure.

Bread with Gelbwurst and chives in Munich.

Sausage guide

Munich and it's sausages

The universe of Munich's sausages is almost infinite. An orientation guide.

The universe of Munich's sausages is not infinite. Its full extent may, however, appear unfathomable to many visitors to the city. A guide.

The chef of the restaurant Schneider Bräuhauses München is cutting a knuckle of pork with a big knife.

Bavarian gastronomy

Nose to tail

Heart, kidney, cheeks, tail: Nose to tail eating is a worldwide trend. Always has been in Munich.

Heart and kidneys, cheeks and tail: While serving up the more unusual parts of an animal may currently be one of the hottest trends, the people of Munich have been doing it for centuries.

Merchant with dried fruit on the Viktualienmarkt in Munich.
Viktualienmarkt Tasting Tour

Discover the most delicious delicacies of the city and learn all kinds of interesting facts about Munich's most famous food market.

Book now for 40 €!

Discover the most delicious delicacies of the city and learn all kinds of interesting historical facts about Munich's most famous food market.

Three copies of the official Munich city guide are slightly stacked on top of each other so that the image of the Frauenkirche remains visible on each one.
Official Munich City Guide

With our new city guide, you can take a relaxed stroll through the most beautiful neighbourhoods and discover insider tips from our guides - from sights to hidden highlights. Order now free of shipping costs!  a

Order now for 8,90€ incl. shipping!

With our new city guide, you can take a relaxed stroll through the most beautiful neighbourhoods and discover insider tips from our guides.

With our new city guide, you can take a relaxed stroll through the most beautiful neighbourhoods and discover insider tips from our guides - from sights to hidden highlights. Order now free of shipping costs!

Panoramic view of the Munich Christmas market at Marienplatz.
Christmas Market Tour

Get in the mood for Christmas on this tour through the old town in the wonderful atmosphere of fragrant almonds and glittering lights.

Book now for 30 €!

Get in the mood for Christmas on this tour through the old town in the wonderful atmosphere of fragrant almonds and glittering lights.

Get in the mood for Christmas on this tour through the old town in the wonderful atmosphere of fragrant almonds and glittering lights.

View of a residence serenade with candles in the court chapel.
Residenz Serenades

This Munich experience promises high culture for newcomers and enthusiasts: enjoy the popular Mozart concerts in the Residenz.

Book now from 38 €

This Munich experience promises high culture for newcomers and enthusiasts: enjoy the popular Mozart concerts in the Residenz.

Exterior view of the Munich Palace of Justice on Prielmayerstraße in Maxvorstadt.
Justizpalast Tour

During the guided tour of the present-day seat of the Bavarian State Ministry of Justice, you will learn everything about the history and significance of the neo-baroque court and administrative building.

Book now for 20 €!

During the guided tour of the present-day seat of the Bavarian State Ministry of Justice, you will learn everything about the history and significance of the neo-baroque court and administrative building.

Small meeting room of the Neues Rathaus in Munich
New Town Hall Tour

Explore the Neue Rathaus on Marienplatz with an official City of Munich tour guide. A visit of the famous law library is also included!

Book now from 22 €

Explore the Neue Rathaus on Marienplatz with an official tour guide. A visit of the famous law library is also included!

Magistrates, Monachia and magnificent celebrations: explore the Neue Rathaus on Marienplatz with an official City of Munich tour guide. A visit of the famous law library is also included!

Exterior view of the Hofbräuhaus Munich at dusk.
Hofbräuhaus Tour

Discover the most famous beer hall in the world with an official guide of the city of Munich and enjoy a fresh Mass of beer afterward!

Book for 28€, Mass beer included!

Discover the most famous beer hall in the world with an official guide of the city of Munich and enjoy a fresh Mass of beer afterward!

Discover the most famous beer hall in the world with an official guide of the city of Munich and enjoy a fresh Mass of beer afterward!

Towers at Marienplatz in Munich
Old Town Tour

The city walk for everyone who wants to become acquainted with the most beautiful parts of Munich's city centre.

Book now for 18 €!

The city walk for everyone who wants to become acquainted with the most beautiful parts of Munich's city centre.

Wort kettle at the Spaten brewery in Munich.
Spaten Brewery Tour

Experience a brewery tour at Spaten with a look behind the scenes, interesting facts about the company history and beer tasting in the brewery tower.

Book now for 22 €!

Experience a brewery tour at Spaten with a look behind the scenes, interesting facts about the company history and beer tasting in the brewery tower.

A woman with varnished fingernails holds a gift with the inscription "simply Munich".
Vouchers

Buy now vouchers for your visit in Munich. The ideal gift! Guided tours, guest cards and more...

Buy vouchers from 6,50 €

Buy now vouchers for your visit in Munich. The ideal gift! Guided tours, guest cards and more...

Book now!

Street Art-Tour

Did you know that Munich was a pioneer of the European graffiti scene? Discover different art up close in the city with our street art tour today!

Experience the city's diverse art & exciting graffiti on our street art tour!

Did you know that Munich was a pioneer of the European graffiti scene? Discover different art up close in the city with our street art tour today!

View of the Salzach river and the castle in Salzburg.
Salzburg and the Lake District

Visit the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and relax on the journey to beautiful Lake Wolfgang.

Book now from 58 €

Visit the birthplace of composer extraordinaire Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, stroll through the Baroque old town and then relax on the journey to beautiful Lake Wolfgang.

A stone jug with the inscription Oktoberfest Munich.

Order now!

Oktoberfest Shop

Bring a piece of Oktoberfest home: Purchase official souvenirs such as the Wiesn poster or the Oktoberfest beer stein in the official Oktoberfest shop.

Bring a piece of Oktoberfest home: Purchase official souvenirs such as the Wiesn poster or the Oktoberfest beer stein in the official Oktoberfest shop.

A woman in the exhibition "Der Blaue Reiter" in the Lenbachhaus in Munich
Discovery trip incl. City Pass

2 nights in your selected hotel and - thanks to the City Pass - free admission to 45 museums, sights and attractions: our travel package for explorers.

3 days from 313 € for 2 Pers.

2 nights in your selected hotel and - thanks to the City Pass - free admission to 45 museums, sights and attractions: our travel package for explorers.

Bag on green background
Vouchers

Give the gift of a special Munich voucher: we also offer vouchers for all our guided tours. Here you can book unique Munich experiences directly online, print them out and give them as a gift voucher to friends or family.

Buy vouchers from 6,50 €

Give the gift of a special Munich voucher: we also offer vouchers for all our guided tours. Here you can book unique Munich experiences directly online, print them out and give them as a gift voucher to friends or family.