A person lies under a parasol on a sandbank in the Isar river in Munich.

Local Love: Bogenhausen

Secluded swimming spots along the Isar river

While the Isar river around Reichenbach Bridge is usually quite busy in summer, there are many great areas nearby in Bogenhausen that you can have (almost) to yourself. A tour from south to north will take you to the best spots.

The Isar river is an essential part of a summer in Munich with picnic blankets, youngsters chilling with their Bluetooth speakers and, a bit further on, young men in shirts enjoying their after-work beer. Between Reichenbach Bridge and Wittelsbacher Bridge, blankets seem to be vying for space. This is the heart of the action; this is where Munich comes alive with a vibrant party spirit.

In the midst of the hustle and bustle, it's hard to imagine that there is a quiet, secluded river idyll just a few steps away. In Bogenhausen, you will find several places where the only sound your hear is the gentle murmur of the Isar – the perfect setting for undisturbed chats or a refreshing splash. Join us on a tour of the best spots – from south to north.

 

Schwindinsel – a Hidden Gem in the City Centre

Strictly speaking, the first of these spots is not quite part of Bogenhausen. However, this hidden gem exudes the same peace and quiet, so we've included it as a must-visit place on our list. The entrance is a bit tricky to find: roughly in the centre of Maximilians Bridge, a path leads to Schwindinsel island on the downstream side. As you walk from the bustling bridge to this hidden spot, you'll suddenly be enveloped by serene tranquillity. Tall trees line the path to the left and right, providing shade and silence.

To reach the Isar river, you can veer left off the path and follow a narrow, somewhat steep downhill trail. At the bottom, the river flows past the island in terraces, which can be seen from the bridge. A couple of young people try skipping stones while standing on the wide steps and someone else rests on a towel on the walled bank. Alternatively, you can turn right at the entrance, where stone steps lead you down to the Isar. The river also flows in cascades here, but a little faster, due to the deeper water. Two people sit on the wall of the fishing ladder.

In Bogenhausen, you will find several places where the only sound your hear is the gentle murmur of the Isar – the perfect setting for undisturbed chats or a refreshing splash.

The third option is the most popular and best hidden one: follow the path straight ahead, and you’ll get to a staircase at the end. This leads to the tip of the small island. There are a few groups of people sitting on blankets, a dog nibbles on its toy and young men throw bottle caps to one another. You can relax right next to the calming water rushing by. If you are looking for a quiet spot on the Isar close to the city centre, Schwindinsel is just the place for you.

 

Gravel Bank at Maximiliansanlagen – Adventure and Evening Sun

The journey to the next spot is an adventure in itself. Starting from Maximilians Bridge, we walk downstream on the east side of the Isar river. Alternatively, we can take one of Munich's most unique riverside paths to reach the Bogenhausen section of the Isar: the wall footbridge, which starts north of the Muffathalle (hall) and separates the open Isar from the Auer Mühlbach stream. It's a very romantic stroll until you reach solid ground again at the end of the footbridge.

Now we eventually reached the true Bogenhausen. We are in the Maximiliansanlagen (public garden) – a park that is not very busy and invites visitors to spread out their picnic blanket. Gazing down to the Isar, you might wonder how people get to the gravel bank below. If you look closely, you'll discover a rust-brown metal ladder at the start of the gravel bank. With a bit of skill, you can swing your legs over the railing and climb down about four or five meters to the gravel bank

Gazing down to the Isar, you might wonder how people get to the gravel bank below.

Due to the adventurous ascent, you won't find any crates of beer or large Bluetooth speakers here. Teenagers carry drinks down the ladder in cotton bags and one boy tosses the last five bottles to his mate, who successfully catches them one by one. Most of the other people are in pairs or alone, lying on their towels in swimwear. The Isar is shallow here, perfect for wading in and cooling your feet. As this spot is on the east bank, it is ideal for soaking up the evening sun.

Gravel Bank on the West Side – For Undisturbed Moments

We continue down the Isar to the third point and switch to the banks on the left-hand side over Luitpold Bridge. From the footpath, you can turn right onto a smaller path that runs closer to the Isar, but still a few metres above the river. Soon, you’ll reach another gravel bank. And again, the question arises: How can you get down?

This time, there is no ladder, but a stone staircase at the start of the gravel bank. There is another railing to climb over – and the descent is only for those with a head for heights. The stone steps are half overgrown with ivy, so you have only half the width of the steps to walk on. There is no hand railing, but it's definitely worth the effort. In the evening, you can enjoy the shade, which is particularly pleasant on hot days. There is only one group sitting on the gravel bank at the moment, so you can spend undisturbed time by the Isar. If you're out and about early, you can also enjoy the morning sun here. 

 

Max Joseph Bridge – for Chillers

To reach our fourth point, we have to cross the Isar river again, this time on Max Joseph Bridge. No climbing skills are required this time. Once across the bridge, a gravel bank appears on the right-hand side, easily accessible from the road via a few paths.

This is another great place to watch the sunset. The gravel bank stretches on, and although several small groups are relaxing on their blankets, it's noticeably quieter than the city center's Isar banks. A few people are cooling off in the water, a lady is splashing around with her dog, while others are sunbathing on their towels and kids are playing. This spot is ideal for families and anyone seeking a laid-back riverside hangout without any climbing involved.

The gravel bank stretches on, and although several small groups are relaxing on their blankets, it's noticeably quieter than the city centre's Isar banks.

Those less interested in gravel banks and more drawn to enchanted high-bank paths and hidden surprises should opt for the stretch between Luitpold Bridge and Max Joseph Bridge on the east side. Here, steep paths lead up and down the unusually high riverbank. Water drips from the sedimentary rock, like in a greenhouse. This northern part of Maximiliansanlagen is also home to the peculiar Achtersee pond that quietly defies the rushing speed of the Isar.

 

Isar Island Oberföhring – Bogenhausen’s Flaucher Stretch

The fifth point is a fair distance down the Isar in Oberföhring and is outside the city limits in the Bogenhausen district. You can reach the island either from the west side of the Isar via the Isar weir, or from the east side: simply walk through the residential neighbourhood of Oberföhring and cross one of the bridges that lead to the island.

On the gravel banks between the Isar weir and the island, you’ll find a few people basking in the sun. You can also get into the water here, as long as you stay a safe distance from the Isar weir. If you want to have a barbecue, go a little further downstream to "Grillzone Isar Nord 5". On the way, you’ll find several small trails branching off from the footpath, leading to private spots directly on the Isar river.

The barbecue zone is a larger grassless area with a few big rocks on which you can sit or place your barbecue equipment. It's also a great place to take a dip, watch children splash around and enjoy a cheerful atmosphere. This area offers a more tranquil option compared to the bustling Flaucher stretch. If you continue a bit further, you’ll arrive at the nude bathing beach on the Isar island. Nude bathing is officially permitted between the St. Emmeram and Herzog Heinrich bridges and since it's not so crowded, first-timers might even dare taking their first skinny dip here.

 

 

Text: Nansen & Piccard; Photos: Frank Stolle
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